Suspension connection newest product line added to our line up is the K Source Towing Mirrors. K Source offers towing mirrors for most vehicles capable of towing. The K Source snap on mirrors are a quality product that will conform to the factory mirrors to extend the site of view behind you trailer. K Source also offers replacement mirrors that will bolt into the factory position, with all the factory options e.g. turn signals, power options & heated mirrors, and will keep you seeing what is behind you while making a lane change. The K Source line is not limited to just towing mirrors. They have other mirror products to aide in the safety of your travels. They have spot mirror that stick on to your factory mirrors, backup mirrors that attach to the rear of your SUV, to see right behind the bumper and even the hard to find, old school tripod mirrors for motorhomes.The Backup mirrors are a great idea for keeping young ones playing behind the car safe, also very effective for backing a ball into a trailer. These mirrors install with a strong adhesive sticky tape. They extend the view from corner to corner of the bumper and from bumper up to 6 ft. out. They are fully adjustable with a 2 point pivot head.

We feel this is a great addition to our site to help you on your way to a safe and enjoyable family outing.

Of all the vehicles a man has throughout his lifetime, none offer more pride than a man’s truck. Regardless of a truck’s make or model, it can become a personal source of identity as well as a functional driving tool. Because of this, many men will add upgrades, accessories or new parts to their truck to continue its legacy of functionality and personal style. One of the more popular and very first improvements to be added to a truck is often the suspension lift kit. These kits provide a truck with a combination of looks and utility.

The Aesthetic Reasons to Get a Suspension Lift Kit

If the truck is truly a personal source of identity, it becomes part of who a man is. It is a direct reflection of a man’s style, interests and hobbies. Many men will add a suspension kit to their truck to showcase their interests and styles because lifted trucks demand attention and functionality.

Selecting Aesthetic and Performance Kits

Many people fall into the trap of buying a good-looking, but bad-quality, suspension kit. When looking at different suspension kits, performance should be equally as important as style. It is important that a truck drives smooth, is comfortable, safe, and reliable. This is just as important, if not more important, than the extra inches of suspension added.

When buying a suspension kit it’s important to know what type of driving the truck will primarily do, whether it is off-roading or just basic commuting. Once this is established, drivers can begin to narrow down possible choices of suspension kits based on price, looks, and performance.

The Benefits of Adding a Suspension Kit

It is important to know what performance or style perks are gained from suspending a truck or SUV. First and foremost, most people suspend their vehicles for extra clearance, especially those who want to use their truck to go off-roading. By having more clearance, drivers will be able to ascend or descend steeper trails, as well as drive over boulders and other obstacles with more ease.

Larger tires offer more traction, especially in off-road conditions where extra traction is extremely necessary. The need for more traction results in drivers wanting larger tires but in some cases, larger tires cannot fit within the truck’s lowered wheel wells. To appease this, a lift kit is required.

The basic function of a lift kit is to keep the cars wheels in contact with the ground and provide a comfortable ride for the passengers. This is accomplished by the up-and-down movement of springs. It is important when maintaining a truck that these springs including the torsion bar, are kept intact and in good maintenance. Drivers should check the coil springs, leaf springs, and torsion bar annually (if possible, at least every 5,000-10,000 miles) to ensure they have not worn down.

Suspension and Towing as Companions

I recently went on a camping trip in the Wasatch Mountains with some friends. We had everything prepared, so I stuffed our little Honda CR-V full of supplies and went to my friend’s to meet up. When we arrived, he told us he didn’t have a tow hitch on his truck and asked if we could tow his tent trailer. Without knowing anything about towing, I naturally said yes. What a mistake that was. We soon packed up and headed out to our camp site.

The drive down to the site wasn’t too terrible, but that was just on the main roads. I was bringing up the rear while he stayed on point. After about 130 miles I started noticing a weird sound my engine was making. My wife asked what it was too, and we both started seeing smoke coming from under the hood. I pulled off to the side of the road and went to open the hood when I smelled something terrible. Turns out I overheated the engine and radiator fluid was spilling over everywhere. As I sat in the car next to my wife, feeling bewildered and ashamed, it suddenly hit me what was wrong. I had added an extra 500 lbs of cargo, and 1,200 lbs of tent trailer. My car was doing a triple-weighted load up the mountain pass! After this realization and the trip being cancelled, I began to explore just how much damage had been done.

It seems my catastrophic blunder ended up doing much more damage than I thought. Not only did I have to replace the head gasket valve cap, radiator fluid and tow ball hitch, but I stressed my CR-V’s new suspension enough to need a complete replacement.

Air Bag Suspension vs. Helper Springs

One of my main concerns after the debacle dealt with load support. I have been debating on whether to get steel helper springs or a suspension air bag kit before we even started the trek because I had lost a coil the month previous. It was my understanding that both were effective in preventing swaying and sagging, and they also improved steering control, so picking one was a hard decision.

• ADJUSTABILITY
• DURABILITY

Adjustability Is an Important Issue

Air bag suspension and helper springs both have manual and automatic adjusting options. Leaf spring helpers come in two general categories, constant and progressive. The constant rate helper springs constantly provide the rated capacity. Conversely, progressive models adjust depending on the load in the truck. Generally air bags can be adjusted to increase or decrease air pressure with air lines that are typically located by the license plate (in a manual setup). It is my understanding that Firestone offers an outstanding air compressor system for adjusting air bag helpers while on the go.

Another Essential Consideration is Durability

I have also been told that Firestone, Air Lift and Hellwig all make very durable products. I think they all come with bellows that have lifetime warranties. While replacement air bags are not very difficult or costly to obtain, I believe the majority of issues are usually covered by warranty. I have been told that an air system is the one I should consider if my main interest is in adjusting my springs and customizing my ride while on the go. Constant rate springs might be the best choice if a self adjusting capacity is not necessary.

The Importance of a Sturdy Trailer Hitch

After all the mess I dealt with in the CR-V, I failed to mention one last item of important business. I used my trailer hitch to tow a relatively light-weight trailer. Had I been towing much heavier items, I would have noticed bending the ball mount a little more, but seeing as my load was lighter it wasn’t until later I realized the other damage I had done. And after purchasing new Firestone Air Bags, and adding the labor and parts costs of the above-mentioned pieces, my tranquil trek to the mountains ended up costing me more than a Hawaiian vacation. Following this experience, I began to learn more about trucks, lift kits and involved vehicle modifications.

Getting a Kit

A lot of beginner DIY enthusiasts quickly start to look for more involved vehicle modifications. And for off-roaders salivating over pictures of Jeep Wranglers straddling rock faces, which usually means diving into lift kits.

Keep in mind that any suspension lift kit is a serious modification, and that it will be challenging to install a kit on any vehicle. (The bigger the lift is the more complications that can creep into the project.) Even so, the challenge is interesting and the end result can’t be argued with. With the proper tools, preparation and knowledge about a particular vehicle, DIY drivers can get the job done.

Lift Kit Difficulties

A big part of how difficult it is to install a lift kit depends somewhat on the vehicle and the type of lift kit being installed. Spring-over-axle kits (SPOAs) are popular for Jeeps and trucks used for rock-climbing. This kind of lift puts more leverage directly over the wheels, keeping tires on the ground for the greatest traction. These kits are relatively inexpensive, and the ease of installation is probably among the easiest.

Getting the springs in place for a Jeep Cherokee models can prove difficult, though.Shackle reverse kits are popular for high-speed off-road vehicles on mild terrain. These kits run into some trouble with vehicles that have larger engines. They’re also illegal suspension lifts in many places in the US and Europe due to safety issues at highway speeds, and drivers have trouble passing a safety inspection with them installed.
Spring lifts are rather simple to install, though some springs are stiffer than others. (Drivers may also want to install a taller shackle with this type of kit.) Body lift kits can give a truck a similar look, but there’s significantly more worked involved. There are a lot of other types of lift kits, but generally, drivers should be aware of how the kit will change how the vehicle handles.

Handling

Bigger tires and a lifted suspension are going to make any vehicle harder to steer. Also, stiffer springs will mean a rougher ride, and there’s a lot of variance between manufacturers. Running into complications can often mean running up installation costs as well. If a driver can receive a consultation from an experienced installer, they may be able to avoid buying the wrong type of kit or even attempting a lift on the wrong type of vehicle.

A lot of hidden costs can pop up when installing a lift kit and choosing to do it on a vehicle with fewer complications can save a driver time and money. Just remember to be safe, use the proper tools and get professional advice to avoid making too many costly mistakes.

Why Lift your Vehicle?

If you have a vehicle that you intend to lift by changing the vehicle’s suspension, there are a number of things you’ll want to consider. If the change is merely for looks or you simply want improvement in performance—or perhaps a bit of both, we’ve got a list of things to prepare for.

Preparing for the Cost of a Lift Kit

The one thing, however, that you will likely consider more than anything else is the cost of a suspension lift for your vehicle. What to expect price-wise when lifting your vehicle is a sensible question to ask, and it’s a question that could be answered in a myriad of ways.

The first way to answer that question is to know how much it costs to purchase the equipment that you’re going to need to lift your vehicle.

This is a question that has a few different answers. For example, a basic lift kit that only includes a few spacers may only cost around $100. Other kits, however, that contain springs, control arms, shocks, track bars, extended brake lines and various other steering components may often run for thousands of dollars.

From a cost standpoint, as it relates to different types of lift kits that are available, there’s a significant decision that has to be made as to how extensive you want your vehicle lifting to be. You’ll also need to decide if you’ll be doing the work yourself or if you’ll employ the services of a professional to handle the alterations to your vehicle. This can represent the most significant impact from a cost standpoint (as well as time and frustration,) when lifting your vehicle.

When it comes to either repairing or modifying a vehicle, labor costs at a designated repair or restoration shop can be quite expensive. Labor costs can vary from $60-$90 per hour. When you consider how labor-intensive some vehicle lift projects are, you could very well spend a great deal more on the labor of installing your lift kit, than you might have spent the lift kit itself.

Lastly, you need to consider all the extra add-on costs that come with lifting a vehicle. For example, if you use an extensive lift kit that involves replacing shocks and springs, and other suspension related components, one of the first things you’ll need to do is to have the vehicle professionally aligned after the installation of the kit. In most cases you’ll need, or perhaps want, different wheels and different tires to fit your raised vehicle especially if you’re considering using this vehicle in an off-road capacity. All these things add up in cost and can greatly increase your vehicle lift expenses. Click here to learn more about cost breakdowns for lift kits.

KEY POINTS TO CONSIDER

• If you’re lifting your vehicle, make sure you know who’s doing it and how much you plan to pay
• You can decide between aesthetic appeal and functional capacity lifts.
• There are many ways to lift your vehicle. From springs to air bags to kits—make sure you know which one you want.

 CONCLUSION

If you don’t do it properly, lifting a vehicle can be expensive and time-consuming. Ensure you have all the information you need to proceed and get the right help for the job. Whether it’s a professional repairman or, if you’re planning to do the installation yourself, someone who knows what they’re doing. In the end it will make all the difference.

An anti-way bars main purpose is to reduce body roll by transferring the upward pressure from the outside turning wheel torsionally though the bar to the opposing side keeping the tire in contact with the street for better traction in cornering.  When a car enters into a corner the weight of the car shifts to the outside or away from the turn. This activates the sway bar. As the spring compresses, allowing the body to to dip, the sway bar literally springs into action. When the upward force is Applied to the sway bar the twisting force  placed on the bar forces the opposite side down distributing the weight evenly to all four tires making handling your vehicle easier.

 Sway bars in Racing:

Sway bars are used in racing and performance applications to stabilize the vehicle thought turns at high speeds. The forces created at such high speeds require a large than factory sway bar to control the higher demand for body roll resistance. By increasing the Sway bar diameter you are making the bar harder to twist creating a stiffer roll resistance.

Sway bars in towing:

A sway bar can greatly benefit your vehicle while towing. Placing a load on truck demands more performance and control out of your rear end. A factory sway bar will lack in it’s ability to handle heavier loads, leaving you responsible for trying to correct with your driving skills. While towing you can encounter many different factors that effect the way your trailer will follow behind your vehicle. Road conditions, wind and other drivers will have you correcting and changing lanes at a moment notice. A sway bar will stabilize the suspension from rocking back and forth giving you more control over whatever you may be pulling.

Sway bars off road:

Lifting  your truck will gain you clearance off road but in doing so it also make the vehicle more top heavy. A sway bar will help to keep the truck more level. Hellwig offers extended adjustable extended links to compensate for the lift heights installed on the vehicle. Evan though a sway bar will limit the travel of your suspension off road there are many who prefer the handling and stability a sway bar offers. For all those who want the extra travel while off road unbolt the end links and take advantage of the full ability of you rig.

Sway bars in everyday use:

Addco, Eibach and Hellwig offer bars for all applications. Even if you don’t have a performance car using it in any of the ways described above they offer bars to increase handling and keep you and your family safe. Traction to the road is key and these bars do just that. If someone or something darts out in front of you and you have to make a quick correction you can do it with confidence knowing that your upgraded sway bars will handle your vehicle like it’s on rails.

Why change your stock sway bars:

Some vehicle are equipped from the factory with stock sway bars. You might ask why would you should change your stock bars out. As we all know the factories make there decisions on what parts to install on their cars based on cost. The smaller the bar the cheaper the cost.  This leave many vehicles equipped with a bar that is inadequate to handle the tasks thrown at it. By changing the diameter of the bar from a factory .625 to aftermarket .750 (only about 1/8″ more) you will pick up 205% increase in strength. Most sway bars bolt up to factory mounts making them very easily install. They include Polyurethane bushings and all hardware required to install  the bar. Adding or upgrading a sway bar is an effective way to increase handling performance and traction. The benefits out weigh the minimal cost and with as easy as it is to install you could trade the boat feel in for a sport performance racing machine in just a few minutes.

Benefits of a sway bar:

• Reduces body roll
• Better vehicle control
• Improves cornering traction
• Distributes weight evenly
• Stabilizes towing sway 

Have you ever been to Moab, Utah? If not, you’ve most likely heard of the incredible off-roading cruising through there every day. Some of the most exotic and extravagant trucks, SUVs and off-road vehicles you’ve ever seen showcase their talents on some of the most difficult driving terrain in the United States. Some of the biggest lifts imaginable strut their shocks on the climbing catwalk— dazzling spectators and visitors alike. The event is rather incredible. Any driver of a truck or SUV with a suspension lift kit knows that Firestone is one of the most trusted brands available to support and lift your vehicle.

As the drivers and enthusiasts make their way to Moab, and prepare for the Mecca of motor-sporting, it’s always surprising to see the amount of trucks and SUVs that aren’t fitted with Firestone Air Bags. I’m aware there are many brands and models out there to choose from, but with Firestone’s history of excellence and their consistency to quality, it’s a wonder to me not every vehicle down here carries them.

For days and days this goes on. Monster machines traverse the red-rock canyons and hillsides showing off their incredible power and drivers’ skill. This is where the big boys come to play and they play hard. Those who aren’t quite on board with the thrill of it all need to look more in depth at the marvel of modern day suspension lift kits. The technology behind lifting these multi-ton vehicles from a few, to several, inches takes more than a simple tire jack. These kits are designed at raising the cars base level higher, or in some cases lower. The off-road vehicle enthusiasts in southern Utah are all most likely raising their vehicles to adequately maneuver the treacherous rocks and chasms that await them.

The innovation behind the Firestone airbag stems from the idea of supporting a vehicle’s suspension from the bottom up. Resting the weight of the vehicle on a softer surface helps eliminate some of the natural bounce and shock from stiff or tight springs and coils. Adding these air bags to the suspension mounts give you not only a smoother ride, but ultimately more stability in your overall drive, which is essential when you’re focusing your efforts on off-road or rough-terrain driving.

Another bonus of installing a Firestone air bag to your suspension lift kit is adding distance to your vehicle’s clearance level. When traveling off-road it’s often essential that your vehicle can clear higher-than-normal obstructions. Without proper clearance on your lift, that rock that normally would dent your muffler or bang your oil pan slides casually by as you plow along.

So what do you need to do when lifting your own vehicle? Let’s run through some of the more basic points:

1. Establish the Reason for the Lift.     
2. Determine the Height of the Lift for your Vehicle.      
3. Have the Kit Installed or Install it Yourself.

Let’s run through each of these points in more depth. First let’s begin with establishing the reason for the lift. Some may ask what reasons there are for lifting in the first place, and they make a good point. There are many reason to lift a vehicle and you need to know which one you’re choosing. The most common reason people lift their vehicles is for clearance. Many off-road enthusiasts are looking for as much clearance as possible to make the new climb or achieve new heights, literally. Most clearance lifts are specifically designed on a vehicle-to-vehicle basis, so make sure if you are going to lift your car that you know what suspension lift kit you actually need. If you’re not lifting for clearance reasons, you’re most likely lifting for visual appeal or for handicap vehicle situations. Either one of these scenarios are perfectly acceptable for vehicle lifting, and should be done at the buyer’s discretion.

Second we need to discuss the height of the vehicle being lifted. How high would you like to go? Some vehicles will lift only a couple inches just to give them a little clearance while other trucks or SUVs will go extreme and put 12-18 inches on their rides, thus requiring a small ladder or stairs to get in. Some of the advantages to a higher clearance means, obviously, more room under the vehicle and also more protection to the bottom of your vehicle, but one of the main disadvantages is that with every inch you raise your vehicle you lose miles per gallon in your fuel efficiency. The higher you go the more you spend at the pump. Choose wisely the lift you’re looking for, because once you lift your vehicle you deal with the results.

Thirdly, you need to decide how you’re going to install your Firestone Air Bag. Are you going to do it yourself, or are you going to take it to a certified and authorized installer? Is it something you have the time to do properly, or do you feel your efforts would be best spent in other areas while someone else amended your vehicle properly? Regardless of your decision, make sure it’s the one that will ultimately give you the best and most comfortable ride in your truck or SUV.

Most commonly lifted trucks and SUVs:

• Jeep
• Ford F-150
• Dodge Ram 1500
• Chevrolet Silverado 2500
• Nissan Titan
• Toyota Tacoma
• Ford Excursion
• Chevy Impala

Dodge Ram 2500/3500 Performance Traction Bars

Back to the garage to install and review the Tuff Country performance traction bars for the Dodge 2500 & 3500 Ram trucks and wow do these things work. We wanted some way to show the advantages of having these bars on the truck, so we hooked up a trailer and off we went. As shown in the side by side video the results are drastic. These Dodge Ram 2500/3500 performance traction bars virtually eliminate all spring wrap. These bars are fully adjustable so they can be used on any truck from stock to 6″ lifted models. They are a stout quality bar built to withstand the extreme torque of the diesel motors. Easily installed with only a few holes to drill makes installing these bars a quick and painless Saturday Project.

 The Installation Process:

1. Start by getting the vehicle in the air. You will need to support it by the frame to allow the axle to hang at full droop. Remove the tire to gain access to the rear u bolts.   Now begin with the front bracket. This bracket uses the spring eye bolt, which is the main weight bearing bolt, and three others to keep the bracket from rocking back and forth.

2. Once the bracket is in place and the spring eye nut is torqued you can use the holes in the bracket as a guide to drill the three other holes that hold the bracket on. Using the bolts supplied torque down the three other bolts to finish out the front bracket.

3. With the front bracket all buttoned up you can move on to the rear bracket. This bracket is designed to cup the axle and stay in place using the u bolts. The u bolts will have to be loosened at this point on the install. Once you have enough space to slip the bracket between the u bolts and the axle, position the bracket and start to tighten the u bolt cinching the bracket up to the axle.  At this point leave the bracket a little loose for final positioning to avoid contact with the rear springs.

4. Assemble the arm installing the bushings, sleeves, hiem joints, jam nuts & grease zerks, make sure to use lithium based lube on the polyurethane bushings and anti seize on the threads of the hiem joints.

5. Now that you have both brackets installed pin the rear of the arm into the rear bracket and swing the front up and make sure that you have adequate space between the arm and the factory overload on the spring. This will only be a issue on stock trucks, lifted trucks will have more room created by the lift (remember the suspension is at full droop, so this will be the closest that the bar will come to the springs). Do not bolt the front of the arm in at this point. After you have spaced the bar you will need to torque the rear u bolts securing the axle bracket in place.

6. All brackets in place the tire can be re-installed and the truck lowered down to the ground. It now time to bolt the traction bar in between the brackets. Start by putting the bolt though the rear bracket. Then swing the arm up too the front bracket checking the length. Adjust the hiem in or out to match up the hole. Bolt the front of the arm in and torque bolts. tighten the jam nut and pump some lithium grease into the zerks.

Final Thoughts:

These traction bars impressed me so much, especially the before and after video. It really shows the stock spring, when put under a load twisting and letting the pinion change angle putting undue stress on the u joints and pinion bearing. For a small cost, these bars could prevent premature parts wear and get rid of that choppy feel at take off. I would recommend these to anyone with a lot of torque needing to control your spring from wrapping up on you. They are great for towing application where a lot of stress is put on the springs from the weight of the trailer.

Videos:

Before and After video:

Installation video:

When deciding on a lift kit for your truck or SUV, you will need to consider what it is that you want as an end result for the truck. Maybe you are just looking to clear a larger tire. Perhaps you are looking for more performance off road or just the look of a lifted truck. Here at Suspension Connection We have you covered.

Body Lift:

• More wheel well clearance for larger tires
• Factory ride quality
• Maintains factory shocks
• Cost effective
• Great look
• More difficult install
• Frame more visible
• Will not improve off road performance
• Will not provide any more frame height

Body lifts are a lift designed to raise the body off the frame either 2” or 3”. This style of lift gives the vehicle more wheel well clearance to allow running a larger tire without contacting the fenders. These kits accomplish lifting the vehicle using nylon spacers, provided with the longer bolts and all the hardware needed to complete the job. This will ensure the vehicle ride quality will not suffer from the installation of this kit. Installing this kit will not require replacing the factory shocks keeping cost down. Body lifts are a cost effective way to give your vehicle a great look that will stand out in a crowd.

Body lifts are limited to 2” or 3” and tend to have a lot of parts, also some modifications during install, making them a more difficult kit to install. They require removing or raising the cab and bed high enough to place the nylon blocks in between the body and frame everywhere there is a factory body mount. They also leave a gap between the frame and body visible in the wheel wells as well as below the body. This can be addressed with a set of Gap Guards that will fasten using quick push pin style fasteners to eliminate gap in the wheel wells. Most new vehicle applications include bumper brackets to deal with the gap left between the bumpers and body, however not all. Some vehicles have brackets from the factory that are slotted to allow them to be moved up and others with have to be modified. While body lifts will provide more clearance for a larger tire, they will not increase ground clearance to frame or improve off road performance. With a larger tire you will pick up height to the axles and frame but the lift itself does not offer any more clearance.  If you are looking for a more cost effective way to lift your truck you should be looking at this style of lift.      

Suspension Lift:

• Available in multiple heights
• Allows for a larger tire
• Improves off road performance
• Increases ground clearance
• Great look
• Bolt on application (no welding)
• Some can be labor intensive to install
• Some will provide a more harsh ride
• More costly

Suspension lifts are designed to upgrading the suspension components enabling the vehicle to maintain a lifted stance. They are available in 2”, 3”, 4”, 5”, 6” and 8” increments depending on the vehicle. When lifting a truck or SUV by using a suspension lift ,you are not only allowing for a larger tire to be run but also improving  your off road performance and increasing you frame clearance ,making getting hung up while off road less likely. Suspension lifts give your vehicle a tough look like it’s ready to take on the roughest terrain. All Tuff Country & Daystar lift kits are bolt on design (no welding required).

Depending on what vehicle you are installing the lift on will decide how labor intensive it is. If it is going on a leaf sprung or coil sprung vehicle installation is a breeze.  The more labor intensive installation comes with putting it on an independent front suspension vehicle. This often requires cutting and or notching as well as specialty tools. Tools such as torsion bar removal tool and strut compressors are readily available for rent or sale at most auto parts stores. Suspension lifts can sometimes change the ride quality of a vehicle due to the springs that are used have to have a slightly higher spring rate to maintain the ride height. Leaf springs will have more arch and coils more length all to achieve a lifted stance. All these replacement part equal a higher price tag on this style of lift, but if you are looking for more performance in your vehicle’s suspension this is the clear choice for you.

It is unquestionable that suspension air bags increase payload and aid in helping stabilize heavy loads. The question at hand is will I benefit by having an on board compressor with in cab controls.

Air bag helper springs & their requirements:

Air bags for your Suspension are like your tires in the way that they will have to be topped off with air from time to time. If you see excessive air leaking and are having to refill them on a daily basis you may have a leak. As far as getting the air into the bags you can either air them up manually using a home compressor or use an on board compressor.

• Air bags can be installed with the airlines routed together using a union tee and then out to a single Schrader valve

• They also can be routed to two separate Schrader valves.

All thou it makes it easier to fill with one Schrader there is a drawback to installing air bag this way. If you are only looking to air up the bags to support the load then there will be no problem with this. The union tee does not have a check valve built into it; it will not stop air flow transferring from side to side if the truck starts rocking or while cornering. Because of this if you tee the lines together it will not control sway or rocking side to side.

Air bag helper springs whether from Firestone, Air Lift or Hellwig require 5 psi in the bags anytime the vehicle is in motion. Without this pressure in the bags they will fold up onto itself and rub, creating a hole and we all no holes and air don’t mix.  One could benefit from having an on board compressor in this case. There are many models out there that due the monitoring for you. On all Air Lift models, every time you turn the key on the pressure reading registers back to the compressor. If the pressure has fallen below 5 psi the compressor will kick on until the pressure is back up to safe operating pressure. This will safeguard your bags to make sure you get many years of use from your investment. Other compressor units will reset your bags back to the pressure that you had them set to when the vehicle was parked.

 Compressors:

There are many different styles of compressors to choose from. There are literally styles to fit every scenario. On board compressors come in handy when conditions change either on the road or when Mother Nature decides to make some changes of her own. Having a compressor at your fingertips will allow you to make changes to compensate in any condition.

• Standard duty compressors are an entry level compressor. They include a needle style gauge that reads the air pressure in the bags. They come in single gauge or dual gauge (some dual gauge set ups are actually a single gauge with dual needles).

• Heavy duty compressors are available for those using the compressor more frequently or want to fill a tank to run other items (air horn, air up tires or air tools).

• Digital read out displays are available in both the standard and heavy duty set ups. This gauge is smaller than a traditional gauge and can be incorporated into the factory dash configuration easily. This digital read out is very easy to read with larger numbers than the needle style gauges.

• Compressor kits are available with air tanks providing on demand air for faster air up of the bags. They also will allow for a separate line for accessories. Most will include an additional hose for filling up tires.

• Kits are available in a remote style read out like Air Lift’s #72000 Wireless Air Remote System or the more economical Wireless One Air System. This is still a digital read out only without the wires needing to feed the display. These kits are quicker and easier to install because you don’t have to drill through the fire wall to bring wires and hose into the cab. You also will not have to worry about where to mount the gauge. The gauge is about the size of a garage door opener and can be stored in a center console, glove compartment or clipped to a visor.

• Compressor kits also have the option to be automatic never having to worry about what air pressure is in the bags. These kits will utilize a sensor mounted to the axle and the frame. When you put the load on the vehicle and it squats the rear end down the compressor will kick on and fill the bags until the sensor come back into alignment. After un-hitching or unloading the bed the sensors will be misaligned again triggering the release of air in the bags until the sensors realign.

Compressors are a good investment:

• Easy and quick to change air pressure in bags
• Monitor air pressure in bags to prevent damaging bags
• Convenience of not having to find a service station with a compressor if changes need to be made on the road
• Don’t have to pay for the air at a service station
• Make changes on the fly if wind picks up or road conditions change
• Option to run air tools
• Ability to fill tires

Tuff Country EZ-Ride Suspension recently released a new 3″ lift kit for the Ford F-150 that has quickly become a big hit. We decided to get a first hand look of what was so attractive about this kit. This suspension lift is a great compromise between those who are looking for a little more than just a leveling kit but not looking to tackle all the modifications of a larger kit. It’s simple design includes a new set of control arms to keep the alignment geometry straight. A strut spacer as well as a pre-load spacer give the front end the lift followed by a 1″ block and longer u-bolts to finish out the rear end. The kit is designed to lift and level the truck so you will not have to purchase a separate leveling kit for this truck to sit level. It’s affordable cost is definitely a plus  and the ease of installation means you won’t have too much tied up in installation fees if you decide to have it professionally installed. This F150 lift kit recommends a 33 x 12.50 tire with a wheel that has a 5.5 or less backspacing (will fit up to 35″ tires with a little trimming). The stock tire and wheel combo will fit with this lift if desired, but it will not allow for a wider tire with the factory rims or contact with the upper control arm will occur. Before beginning, the Tuff techs took pre measurements from the center of the hub on the wheels to the fender at each wheel to obtain a starting reference. These numbers were recorded in the instructions for comparison later. Next they checked off all parts included with the kit to the bill of materials list provided on the front page of the instructions. Even though they are the manufacture of this kit and could have skipped this step they still checked every part to make sure that they did not get halfway into the installation process and find out that they were missing something that would cause the truck to not be able to be put back together. They put the Ford F-150 on the hoist and stripped the tires off. They started with the front end of the truck. The first step is unplugging the electronic rack and pinion harness. after disconnecting the rack and pinion harness you will need to disconnect the sway bars end links, the brake line bracket and the abs bracket. Loosen the caliper bolts and tie the caliper up out of the way taking special care not to bend or pinch the abs lines. remove the rotors and then you’ll need to gain access to the axle nut. This is hidden under a dust cap in the middle of the hub assembly. Grab the dust cap with some big channel locks and work it back and forth until you pull it off. Remove the axle nut and separate the tie rod ends. Moving on to the upper control arm you will need to separate that ball joint as well. Now to get that front strut out. Start by supporting the lower control arm with a jack. Now you can remove the upper and lower bolts that hold the strut into the Ford. You will need to lower the jack and use a pry bar to get the strut out of the F150.

After getting the strut out of the vehicle you will need to disassemble the strut  this requires a wall mounted strut compressor. If you don’t have a wall mounted strut compressor you will need to take your struts to a local shop or the dealer to preform the next few steps. You will need to mark both top and bottom of the strut before taking is apart to ensure that you get it back together properly so it will fit back into the truck. The kit has a pre-load spacer and a strut spacer.

The pre-load spacer is the thinner Aluminum spacer that goes in between the strut cap and the coil spring to put a pre-load on the spring so that the factory spring can do some of the work of lifting the front end. This goes in first and then the rubber factory isolator goes back on top of it. Once that is in place the strut can be compressed again and the cap can be installed.

The rest of the lift comes from the strut spacer which also makes the strut compression, when squeezed back into the same place it came from, a tighter fit forcing the F-150 up. The strut spacers are side specific so pay attention when putting them in that you have them on the correct side. The factory nuts will bolt the new spacer into place and the kit will provide you with new nut to bolt the strut back into the upper spring mount.

Now you can set that aside and start to assemble the new upper control arms. You will have to install the bushings, sleeves and grease zerks into the arms. You will need to grease the bushings first before you install them into the arms. (click here to read how to properly grease a polyurethane bushing) Install the greased bushings and sleeves into the arms. The Grease zerks will thread into the arms leaving them ready to install into the truck. Install the arms back up into the stock pockets using the stock bolts. Torque to spec. Now you can re-install the struts back into the truck. This will require the pry bar again and possible a buddy to help push down to make room for the longer strut assembly. Re-install the upper ball joint into the knuckle. Torque the axle nut. Re-install all the rest of the parts rotors, abs brackets, brake line brackets, sway bar links,tie rods and calipers and make sure you grease the newly installed grease zerks.

The only thing left is the rear.They definitely saved the easiest for last. Start by supporting the axle and then taking the u bolts off. Lower the jacks until you have enough room to slide the block between the axle and the springs. Place block on pad so pin locks down int the spring pad and then jack up on the jack until the pins on the leaf spring seat into the holes on the block. Install the new u-bolts and washer using the existing u-bolt plate. Torque the u-bolts to spec and put your tires back on.  Once backed out of the shop, this Ford went from a stock raked tuck to a leveled out lifted truck that would defiantly stand out in a crowd. The ride quality did not suffer much at all from this lift.

The owner of this F150 decided to install LT 295/70 R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, which actually measure out to 34.3 x 11.6 x 18 they fit but rubbed on the mudflaps when turning and had not been tested off road. If you don’t want to worry about trimming things up to make them fit then stick to Tuff Country’s recommended size of 33 x 12.50.

The final look of the Ford F150 was awesome. They really captured the perfect lift not too tall but tall enough to give a custom look and gain some extra clearance for a larger tire size. The Tuff Country F150 lift kit is a bargain at just over $540 dollars and will also save you money, with the install being so easy, by not having to pay for much shop time.

We recently had the chance to watch an install of a Tuff Country 52070 Tundra leveling kit and review the product. To my surprise this kit was very easy to install. As I watched the techs install this kit I thought to myself this looks like something even I could do without messing up.  Installing this front leveling required a strut compressor which I do not have, but I learned that many local shops will provide this service to you once you have the struts off the vehicle. This install was performed on a hoist but could be done in the driveway or on the garage floor with floor jacks and jack stands.  Starting this process the techs took before measurements as a reference of where the vehicles body sits to middle of the hub on the wheel. After those numbers were logged up on the hoist went the Toyota Tundra.

The tire came off to allow access to the suspension components and the install was underway. It starts with disconnecting all the small parts, not really having much to do with suspension, like the abs lines attached to the upper control arms and the brake lines connected to the knuckles. Although these are not suspension pieces they are attached to suspension parts that will hang things up from dropping out properly when unbolted.  They then unbolted the four upper strut bolts holding the strut into the upper spring mount. This allowed them to move on to the next step of separating the upper ball joint in the upper control arm form the knuckle. The ball joint has a tapered shaft that when the nut is tightened it forces it farther into the hole making the connection very tight and very hard to separate.  I had always thought that this required a pickle fork to complete this task properly and not mess up the threads. Not the case, the techs schooled me once again and taught me a little trick that not only will save you from going out and buying a new tool, but will also save your grease boots from the abuse a fork will cause often times ripping them and needing to purchase replacements. If you hit the knuckle at the point where the stud goes through the knuckle it will break loose and fall right out of the knuckle . Yeah like magic. All these years of using pickle forks not having the right size for the job, ripping boots and having to buy replacements when all I had to do was hit the knuckle and watch it drop out.  Oh well better learned late than never learned at all.  

They used this same technique to separate the connection between the knuckle and the tie rod ends  and then it was on to getting the struts out of the vehicle. This required disconnecting the sway bar end links and a big pry bar to allow the lower control arm to drop down far enough to slide the strut out.

With the strut now out of the vehicle they started to break down the struts getting them ready for installation of the spacers. The first step before they tore anything apart was to mark the struts for alignment when putting them back together.

Both the top and the bottom of the strut plates with the spring and the lower eye on the strut were marked to make certain it is put back together and fitted back into the truck properly. Once the lines were marked the strut was mounted into the wall mounted strut compressor and disassembly of the struts began. The struts came apart easy with the proper tools.

The cap comes off and has a rubber spring pad on it. This got discarded in exchange for the leveling spacer. With this completed the top cap can be re-installed back on top of the coil and the strut placed back into the strut compressor. making sure all your marks are lined up, pressure can be applied to the compressor until the stud becomes visible and has enough threads showing to fit the bushing washer and start the upper strut nut.

 

After you torque the strut stud the strut can come out of the compressor and is ready for the upper plate stud spacers to install on top of the cap.

Now reversing everything you just did to get to this point. Start by re-installing the struts back into the factory position. Just as it did to remove the struts, this step will take some prying, even more than before because your squeezing a longer strut assemble back into the same place it came from when it was shorter. Let me take a minute to say that even thou this spacer doesn’t measure two inches it will give the truck two inches by the coil being at a different compression rate as it was before.

Now that the strut is back into the vehicle bolt it all back up and keep the pry bar handy because your not done with it. Using the pry bar you will need to pry down on the upper control arm to get it to mount back into the knuckle. Tighten up the stock castle nut to torque specs until it lines up with the cotter pine hole and lock it in with the cotter pin. Re-install the tie rods in the same fashion and the abs and brake line brackets. After all that’s done we can move on to the last step of installing the differential drop sleeves. This consists of to big sleeves two new bolts and the stock washers. You’ll need to remove the skid plate to gain access to the two front mounts of the differential.

With the skid plate off and set aside you can clearly see the two front diff mounts on cross member. You will need to support the differential from the drivers and passengers side while preforming this task.  At this point you will unbolt the two factory front mounts saving the stock washers and discarding the nuts and bolts.

Install the sleeves between the cross member and diff mount and using the longer bolt provided  slide the factory washer on and back up through the mounts. Torque to specs and re-install the skid plate. Bolt the tires on and set it back down on the ground. This Tundra leveling kit gave the Toyota a leveled out appearance and no longer looked like a 60′s hot rod. The finished product was a more stout looking, meaner truck that had it’s own personality, not like every other one that rolls off the production line.

The kit recommends 32 x 10.50 or the metric equivalent.  This truck went with LT 285/55 R20 Nitto Terra Grapplers with a xd795 Hoss 20 x 9.5 rim +30mm offset. With this combo there was no rubbing on the test drive though turns and dips. A closer look at the front end shows plenty of clearance with this tire and wheel combo.

Suspension Air bags:

          Air Bags for suspension have been in use on vehicle for many years. They are used on commercial vehicle to obtain high rates of load capacity. The bags for the trucks and SUV’s work similar to the ones for big rigs. They work in conjunction with the factory leaf spring to provide more load leveling capacity. They attach to the frame and run down either to the axle or the top of the leaf spring. When air is added to the bags they will resist the frame dropping when the load is placed on the rear end of the vehicle.  The air bags use different air pressures to change the load range of the bags.  As a general rule, the air helper springs will support approximately 40 lbs. of load for each psi of inflation pressure (per pair).  For example, 50 psi of inflation pressure will support a load of 2000 lbs. per pair of air helper springs.

For most of the more popular applications, air bags are a no drill bolt in to factory holes installation. This makes installing these kits fairly easy. The hardest part is running the lines and making sure they are tucked up out of the way and fastened to the frame to stay safe. You will want to route the lines in a way that they stay clear of heat from the exhaust and that will ensure they will not be pinched or kinked obscuring the airway. The lines can either be ran to a compressor or out to a Schrader valve (the same style air valve used on your vehicles tire), for filling the bags.

All double convoluted style bags boast a 5000 lb. load rating. These are found on most of the larger pick-ups and SUV’s.

The tapered air sleeve and straight sleeve will offer a slightly lower rating around 2000-3000 lbs. per pair. These bags will be found on a lot on the half ton and downsized trucks and SUV’s.

Coil bags are offered for most any vehicle, front or rear, with coil spring suspension. These bags install in the center of the coils offering around 1000 lbs. load support.

                 Air bags take a little more maintenance than overloads. Air pressure has to be monitored to maintain the minimum 5 psi required in the bags. If the 5 psi is not maintained while the truck is in motion damage could occur to the bags. There are compressor options that monitor it for you and maintain it for you making them less hassle. Air bags are subject to leaks and constant monitoring of the air pressure but you can beat the ride quality and adjustability of an air spring. If you are looking for extra support with the option to be able to return back to a factory ride and don’t mind a little preventative maintenance, the air bag is the right fit for you.  At suspension connection we offer air bags from popular manufactures like Firestone, Air Lift and Hellwig.

Overload springs:

The over load spring is a little more indestructible design over the air bags. This application works well on trucks off road that are subject to rough terrain. Going thought brush will not have you worrying whether a stick will come up and damage the overloads. This style also is not attached to the frame of the vehicle limiting wheel travel. This style of overload is more of a set it and forget it design. Once it is installed most people leave them alone, mostly due to the difficulty of having to crawl under the vehicle to adjust them. Adjusting them requires wrenches to tighten the bolts holding the end u bolts in place. There are some styles like super springs that work with a shackle and roller making the more of an automatic progressive style. As the spring flattens out the roller repositions itself to offer more support to the factory spring. Overloads work progressively. The more the spring flattens out with load the more weight transfers up to the overload. They are designed like that to try to optimize the best ride quality when not loaded, but because there is some tension required to eliminate rattles and noise, this will affect the ride some.

Styles like Hellwig progressive overloads use a u bolt on the end for adjustment. The tighter the u bolt the quicker it engages to keep the vehicle from squatting down as much before the transfer.

Hellwig also offers their pro series line. This line utilizes a unique polyurethane block that applies tension to the u bolts to not only allow you to leave the u bolts looser on the ends for a better ride quality but keeps them from rattling  making for a quieter ride.

Super springs offer a unique patented self-adjusting suspension stabilizing system. This system works with a shackle and roller resting on the factory spring at the ends. As the spring flattens out the roller reposition itself to the point of least resistance. The shackle design has two positions a lower and higher to allow for more adjustment. The lower position hole offers a better ride quality than the upper hole. Super spring claims that this style of adjuster automatically activates as needed and the anti-sway feature reduces body roll by 30%

Overload springs will support heavier loads and reduce sway. They will require less maintenance than air bags but will offer a stiffer ride quality while vehicle is not loaded. If you are looking for more durability and less hassle you should look toward overload springs.